Wednesday 4th August

 

4/08/04 Day 32.

I awoke without my clothes on and without my contacts in and feeling like a new woman. We set off to see the dancing building which isn't as impressive as the pictures but nice to seesomething contemporary. Across the bridge again and onto the Austrian island which is just a big play area - I like the way the city still keeps its leafy parts. Saw the start of her Hunger Wall including some statues of hungry people then we walked (later hill) over the big mound thing through the wooded areas past the American and German Embassies and a monastery. Wow again were great - I think I took my pen ever photo here (only time will tell). Then we wandered passed Cernin Palace and to the Loreto which is a very nice building (San the ansata). I got a bit touristy but not unbearably so. The Frescoes inside the courtyard were gorgeous and so well kept. But the 'jewel in the crown' (as they say) was the church which was breathtaking. Best church we've seen so far as Brian said it had a bit of everything - dark pink, marble, black, gold - and you didn't really realize the number of angels as the longer you looked the more seemed to pop into view before anyone else. The angels round the organ were my favourite as they all had different instruments. In the treasury there was rather a lot of diamonds and pearls (which I looked at rather calmly I thought). So the 30 mins - hour walking round the Loreto was the lovely memory of Prague for me. We scrambled through the gardens again and then had lunch in a quiet spot where we watched some American tourists have an argument. Then we tried to get into Strahov Cathedral church but you had to pay and thought the crossguard man was explaining a church in the Czechdone walked again over St Charles bridge (NB must watch Mission Impossible again...!). A mention I must also go to the lady who let us the apartment so she was very helpful getting us use the phone and internet... and trying to fix the toilet. After a slightly disturbed route to the station we found ourselves worn out by the hustle and bustle of the big smoke and searching for a quiet retreat somewhere in the Czech countryside. Enter Cesky Krumlov. The rickety bus-like train which took us here gave us splendid views of the rolling hills - some of the nice countryside were seen for a long time. We alighted through forests and I watched the birds doing their thing in these gardens of their cute rented houses. We walked from the station along the winding cobbled streets and over bridges. This town to me is a true very expensive seen as it doesn't just if these it tickles and that's like a picture book small and you can sit right by it and there are restaurants on the riverside. Our hostel is on the bank and I can see the river and the church etc from my bed. We have the cutest street. The hostel is the size of a family home are very family-ish too first hostel I've seen with a little boy staying with his family. We were desperately hungry when we arrived and so we decided not to wander the streets for hours as we normally do when we want something and settle for the great little place near us. Dutch my basically a cave with picnic tables in. This doesn't sound very comfortable but itwas so traditional and crunchy. A great little place - and so cheap - 10p for soup (which was too hot but very nice) - pork + chicken cooked in Blue cheese, potato pancakes and salad (very yummy) - just the sort of pub grub we'd been lacking and (love since realised is what England does best). 2 glasses of wine and a glass of soda beer was 60p a pint. And at 7pm at this point I became all sad that we only have a day here. So in conclusion Prague is stunning, has to be done and I would go back easily in the Autumn and I wouldn't do anything touristy. I'd explore the areas not so central and I'd only come back when I could afford it. My other travels include desert won't sell Prague - come to Cesky Krumlov instead (Is proper Czech Republics...). Cesky Krumlov is an equally ideal place to judge Prague as Prague is to judge Cesky Krumlov. Two places so similar - curving, castle river, towns, cafes - yet feeling more different from each other than you would think possible. I must try not to be too harsh on Prague because I enjoyed the first day wandering around street after street of impressive architecture and it was just good recollecting the previous visit. And the third day was equally enjoyable, not only because of what we did but because I felt we had managed to achieve the ultimate backpacker balance in a city which makes most expats to this end ruthless utterly futile. But inbetween these two days was day 3 on my 'back day' list, closing in on the anguish in Bucharest. I suffered a vicious divide of hatred which started with the mindless herds of tourists which prevented the enjoyment of which should have been a highlight of the threemonths, were it not for the herds of mindless tourists... Krumlov is touristy but there's a feeling here of carefree enjoyment. A laid back attitude which can only come from a desire to enjoy the town WITH everyone else not DESPITE them. The river may be full of tourist canoes (?) but the joy is it's the noise of cameras and tour guides that fills the air, but the hoots of laughter and shouts of excitement. I have a few lasting thoughts on Prague. The Golden Lane was the climax of my inner rage and not because it was ultimate tourism but because had I come across a street like that while wandering around a city my mouth would have dropped open and my eyes widened. But this thing that has happened to Prague instead made it one of my least favourite places EVER optimising everything I hate about the markets, tourists who climb on the tourist train and sit out the ride in all stupid and resultingly fruitless attempt to feel foreign. So, the single image of this city sticking out opinion has I hope, been captured on film due to the genius of Heather. As the Prague clock struck the hour I stood with my back to it and took a photo of 300+ cameras books pointing back at me - here I was, in one of the world's most renowned cultural cities, and all I could see was the bleating masses... That is all for Prague (Certain parts of Prague I should say) has to offer now. So we come from this city that should be wonderful, but isn't, that should be cheap but isn't and should be easily enjoyable but (?) but doesn't, to this town which is picturesque stunning, beyond words cheap as you like. (The entire 13 pint midday-day challenge for €35!!) and I think you would be had pushed not to enjoy yourself here, at any two o'day. Short after short is voted (a dangerous word I agree, but used here most wisely)the river is gorgeous, the food (so far) is great - salad home-cooked pub grub, the beer is 40pence a pint, the people are friendly, the castle although a tourist trap is interesting and enjoyable and then afternoon cocktail and foot-dangling in river was similar to the extreme. This is a town that can be seen. Prague? is a city that is so damning to world...

A quiet side note: the Prague Sex museum was most informative and enjoyable a highlight of that city and a must for every visitor (- it gets going at about 9:30 pm) -

Brian seems to have forgotten that this a diary and not a study of Prague so I'll return to some sort of order...