Friday 13th August

 

13/08/04 Day 41

Well, we picked a lovely day for visiting Bohinj. Really, the dark clouds above us on our way to the station should have been a significant clue that it was due to rain all day. Still we set off with our swimsuit and towel and to catch the train to Jessenice-Bled, whereupon we encountered moody Slovenian bus drivers. Our coach went to the far side of Bohinj. It was a little pricey but it did take an hour and a half - a trot in right past Bled too, which we decided we were glad not to be visiting as even in the rain the roads, campervans and tourists were rife - but in the cafes instead of the lake. Bled was pretty, very upbeat. And driving on the bus was the best way to see the little villages and surrounding countryside between the two lakes.I like the Slovenian countryside - less impressive and more cute than Austria but quite smaller with respect to the houses, hills and fields. Slovenia is definitely more agricultural. I think Brian missed most of the river scenery as he dozed... So we arrived at lake Bohinj which was bigger and quite frankly more impressive than Bled. There were boats moored at the side, minimal cafes and minimal hotels. We started to walk to the waterfall but decided that the sight of the world's best fountain wouldn't take away the feeling of damp. So we took shelter under a roof amongst a group of holiday cottages, which were very nice and would be the perfect place for a weeks holiday. We agreed we couldn't leave without properly seeing the lake and so found a spot with a pebbly 'beach' in amongst the trees which had become home to many campers. The lake really is emerald green - there's no other way to describe it and where it is shallows there is a bright, clear green (jewel green) ring around the edge which gave it a tropical edge. The low clouds in front of the mountains gave it a mythical feel. Nobody was venturing into the lake so Brian had it all to himself (I'm sure we'll explain in greater detail). Then we walked the length of the lake, along which I found some emerald coloured stones to be my Slovenian souvenir. The bus was late (in fact Slovenian buses are always late) and the train was late and the next train was delayed an hour due to fallen cables. So we ended up getting back a little late. Has expected and are again struggling tofind much choice in restaurants which were either shut or full. We ended up in a nice place where I had goulash (I laughed it was about time) and Brian had mussels. Unfortunately my miniature glass of wine must have been called 'suicide' wine because it sent me into a whirl of depression and sickness so we walked back for a good night's sleep. The exhaustion of late nights, early mornings and drinking halls had kicked in. Interesting to note, the only people eating out seemed to be tourists. Also interesting, possibly if the sun had been glistening on the emerald surface the people would have spotted the silence of the area and the smoothness of the velocity water (has poetic). Therefore we praise the sun.

Brian: It's about time she praised the rain. The "mush with soul"(!) was nice enough but swimming excessively through the warm silky waters of the magical lake Bohinj, surrounded by the towering mountains shrouded in silver-white clouds was truly magnificent. Other comments on the day: congratulations to us for enjoyment despite weather & a shame that it was yet another day marred in its closing stages by annoyances outside of our control. (Incidentally, tomorrow is shaping up to be just the same as we sit and wait for yet another late Slovenian train).

1. not strictly true

2. also not true

3. perhaps a little overly poetic...

4. completely false

5. absolute balderdash.

6. entirely accurate.14-08-04   Day 4d   (also - the meaning of life...)

The meaning of life must be somehow related to the train we are now travelling on. The blinds are electrically operated (I managed to break mine by playing with the buttons. Heather responded rather like my Mum did when Adam and I broke the escalator in Paris airport.). The doors don't just slip back, they do a 'friends' maneuver that sends pleasant shudders through the body, and the (and achieved an "aahhee" from Heather) and the head rests are the most comfortable pillows we've had since we left home.

For Brian, the highlight of the day was obviously playing on the train but for me it was the day trip to Bologna Campo. The day began with a lie-in until 8:30am and breakfast in pyjamas. And we fiddled around until 11ish when we made our next premier trip to the train station via the bakery and the clothes shop looking for new trousers. But the time it turned into a trip around the town as I got the wrong train time and so we had an hour to kill. I'd have thought once or clothes would be cheaper here but not really. Bought some expensive postcards though. Managed to doze again on the train before arriving. Bostroja and walking a straightforward 20 minute stroll through the town to see Carol.

The attraction has been turned into a Disneyland with cafe, bars and souvenir stalls along with a car park. However we managed to wander straight passed all this, buy our tickets and get straight on a tour (very unusual for us). (By the way Brian got very excited about the berry stall which seemed to have every kind of berry under the sun)

Now, I thought the caves were pricey at £7 but as soon as we got on our little no roof, no windows train I knew it was going to be worth it. The mainwhizzed off at quite an alarming pace and it quickly got very cold. The train took us down a winding track around the cave walls for 2km. I have never seen a sight quite like it, is all I can say. Like rock icicles dangling from the ceiling and big rock towers growing out of the ground. Rain water discovers through the soil and through the limestone and drips through into the cave, depositing limestone which forms funny shapes of rock called something technical beginning with "st" (stalagmites?). My imagination ran away with me... -> stalagmites join on the floor, stalactites on the ceiling When the tourists go home I'm sure all the pixies and fairies come out from where they were hiding behind the gigantic rocks and had a fairy ball in the big hall which had been lit with chandeliers.

Meanwhile the evil goblins who used to be the kings of the cave watch in (20 minutes the train ride made) hiding from the light as they wallow in their lava and in the pools of dingy water into which raindrops splash...

Given a bit of time I think I could write a novel based on the caves, and the film would of course be shot there too. Definitely the best tourist attraction I think I've ever done and the kind of thing you want to begin, immediately after the first go, I'll definitely be back.

The train out of Postoja was also delayed - this is becoming a rather unnecessary habit. (P.O.I. Slovenian train workers have balls as hardened as steel. As the superfast ics train screamed into the station, the train guard, having left the is more walk from station building to platform a tad late, jumped on to the track and crossed the path of the train with literally split seconds to spare. It reminded me of the scene at the end of The Matrix. And what's more, he wasn't even ruffled byit, while we stared at him breathless & heart racing!!)

The train journey back to Ljubljana, our last yet, has already been mentioned at great length. Dinner consisted of pizza (Bar under a pound), cheesecake for Brian and then we shared a pizza burek which is a traditionally Slovenean greasy, slimy, pastry with tomato sauce and cheese inside, and not as we first thought, a burger. We stopped off there for a quick drink (may win never ver strong more), which we sorted out our what money and lost one of the pens (we have since also lost my ID card which I left in the hostel). We must put a stop to this nonsense. Our first early night in a long while was again after we realised we'd be getting up at 5:30am...

So, to conclude, I think Slovenia is like a small Austria in landscape as it's very beautiful. (Liking the lakes, hills and caves) and you can get anywhere quite quickly as it's so small. I don't think it's worth staying more than a day in Ljubljana but it would be a nice day trip from a weeks holiday in a cottage by lake Bohing.