Saturday 31st July

 

31/07/04 -Day 28 (in the if you get the idea)

- Warsaw (in my OPINION) has nothing on Krakowa - it is a busy metropolis with the very centre where a huge island of olderuwassstruggles to survive in the stormy seas of urbanisation. But the old town although small was lovely - similar to Brasov - and where Warsaw lacks city-wide grandeur it makes up for it in history. Postcards of 'the square' in 1945 and today were some of the best I've seen, and the museums video showing the extent of the destruction was staggering. What with dollying around Chopin's museum we did not have time to do (and Jewish sites, but it was still not hard to imagine and appreciate the phenomenal task effort that must have gone in to reconstructing the city.

Stalin's gift" was also impressive (highest clock tower in world 11!) - the sort of thing I would build in my back garden to irritate my neighbours

The once difference to krakow was also very noticeable, and the quality of take-away snack-good. But Heather has never looked so contented as she (Finally) tucked into her traditional cheesecake and although my ice cackie flavoured ice cream was supposedly vanilla-flavoured, it was still excellent lunch

In quite as glad we stayed sol far from the city centre as it allowed us a manageable walk through the new shiny skyscraper area (complete with Marriot, Intercontinental, Pook, and Deutsche Bank in glaring lights) with the old town - a sort of walk 'once through the ages'. We went to Chopins museum first which I thought was a nice unpretentious museum, which was a refreshing change. We saw his first composition (written 1817, age of 7!) and his last piano. Chopin was actually born 15Km from Warsaw and wasn't French but what lulush, therefore We walked to a view tower, from which I realised exactly how big the city in the city way - can administrate in in London much the outside and store in the middle - it was cool to law down on the old town squareand then turn around and see skyscrapers. We could see the river too which could have done with being moved into a more central position. We wandered past the Royal Palace, deciding not to go in as we decided we don't like British idea of royalty Lots of tacks horses and carts parted outside, along with people trying to take our money in exchange for video. Prices in the restaurants scared to English standards. We wandered down the pretty side streets (there's a lot of amber shops in Poland which everyone seemed to have ignored) and into the market square which is very colourful and quaint. The museum was good even if just for the film but it's a shame they don't give more info in different languages. The Polish history seems a very personal thing The square was nice - prettier than krakow but there wasn't a lot else going on and the herds of Japanese tourists and t-shirt baseball cap sellers turned it into a bit of a fairground. If you hadn't realised the extent of the destruction of the city it wouldn't be that impressive but for the people who are aware of the before and after they must hold a great sense of pride for their city. We saw the best ever water fountain and then lots more (in the gardens-Saxon) and outside the Palace of Secent and Culture which is huge I I think a picture of that building reflected in a pane of glass if are of the contemporary building would sum up the city for me. I cant decide whether prefer Warsawor krakowa (probably they latter) but Warsaw isn't a place I'd really want to return to or if I did I couldn't amuse myself there for long.

We at last found some paper sausages at the very nice supermarket and it was pleasant to feel ill from over-eating as opposed to from anything else.

Poland's landscape reminds me of Suffolk, as we sit am the train heading back to warmer climates it's all very flat and sparse. I think the problem with Poland may be that for a good 9 months of the year nobody desperately wants to visit it and so when it comes to the summer. They're not terribly prepared for what could be a beautiful country. Thursa also had a what and when you do visit something like to see the and there will- we almost you fall- we almost it the're more stuff you released without the more frustrating history whose effects can be seen either in krakow or warsaw or probably any other place for that matter,

As we head to Prague I feel like we're starting again in some respects - the second leg, a different styled section of Europe and for lot - I always wanted to do. If I screwed up the first month in any way I now know how to not screw up the second month.

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