Friday 9th July

 

Day 6.

09/07/04 - Initially leaving home and starting travelling completely removed any concept of the enormity of our bo itinery. But now, after (almost) a week, it has returned - only this time with the real knowledge of just what it is like to "do" a city in 2 days, and then face the prospect of 48 hours, and another city, before your next bed. We will be doing this for 12 weeks ????

It is at prudent times like these that I hope our conversations while drawing up the itinery which included phrases such as: "We'll need a rest here" were well thought out and % not compromised.

Nah, it's all good.

Another deserved lie-in and my feet were almost back to themselves. Had breakfast in Jonathan's flat, from the local bakery. We set off again, on the crazy bus (where Brian now feels like a local as he mastered the rapid money exchanging) and again onto the metro - it seems so much/obvious the second time round. We had our big bags with us today which was harder than I had thought at the start and my hips are all bruised and my feet sore but I got used to it. Took the 'scenic route' to Dolmabahçe-saray palace, where the Sultan lived and some famous guy died. Had to queue to get in but we looked around - lots of chandeliers, lavish curtains etc and a great view from the balcony over the Bosphorus.

Some guy had to give us a lift in his black, not-very-tiny-little-taxi. We refused politely and made the walk back to Taksim, where we found a great Turkish, self-service, pic n' mix lunch place. I had rice and chicken stew. We shared (for pudding) what can only be described as shredded wheat left to marinate over-night in treacle, but it gave my legs the energy to get back down the hill. Didn't have enough time to go to Topkapi palace. Sorted out our train tickets instead which was harder than we thought. But it feltgood to be in the train station - the place where we shall spent countless hours writing diary entries. There were some cool back streets with lots of locals eating out, as we went in such of food. I still can't get used to being stared at when we walk down the street. Before I set foot into Turkey I had no idea what the landscape and towns would be like. I've been very many things, such as the modernity of Istanbul, the changing landscape on the way here, the desperateness of the people to sell your stuff but also just to help out. And I've also been nothing I haven't liked about the city.

Heather's (better than normal) account does not do justice to the my amazing failures to find the palace (granted - we had no map, but it isn't exactly rocket-science) and the stupid man who made us wait 40 minutes for a tour, which we then never really got and had to run to catch up with another... you get the idea. Grr.

Istanbul bites(s):

Landscape: vast open spaces Empty.

People: suspiciously friendly, love tourists (or tourists money), very helpful.

Food: A lot of meat.

     Easy to get. Terrible cheese.

     Ice cream to die for (literally)

Attitude to Foreigners: "come in, eat drink - take my house take my wife..." etc.

A pungent thought: Istanbul is a clash of cultures. East and west.

        Istanbul is (also) a clash of old and new

        Driving: not good.